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World of TWG

A TRAVELOGUE: ABOVE THE CLOUDS OF ALISHAN

TEA ORIGIN SERIES
Journey to the mist-veiled peaks of Alishan where Taiwan’s legendary blue teas are meticulously handcrafted. Traverse winding mountain roads steeped in centuries-old tradition and the artistry of cultivation. Discover Alishan Oolong alongside TWG Tea connoisseur Ada as she travels to source one of Taiwan’s most coveted treasures.

My journey begins in Taiwan’s mythological landscape, where tea is more than a beverage. It’s a legacy steeped in history, culture, and meticulous craftsmanship. 

I have dedicated my life to sourcing the world’s finest teas for TWG Tea. On this picturesque island, our tea masters craft a selection of custom-handmade Taiwanese teas, each a testament to generations of expertise. Among them, Oolong Blue Tea — also known as Alishan Oolong — stands as one of the most sought-after, its secrets waiting to be uncovered.

The island of Taiwan boasts such stunning topography and landscape that when the Portuguese first settled here in the 16th Century, they named her Ilha Formosa, meaning “Beautiful Island.” To this day, the linguistic remnants of the word Formosa adorn the island, from shop signs to plant species and historical buildings.   

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Taiwan is an island where tea cultivation is an art form. Its unique terroir produces exceptional-quality teas. This reputation worldwide has ensured that tea accounts for a significant slice of the agricultural sector, playing a major role in shaping the economy and livelihoods of thousands of tea-producing families, including the tea masters we work with. 

Lush tea gardens dot the verdant landscape across the island, and some of the most notable regions include Nantou County and Pinglin in New Taipei City. However, to source the most notorious of them all, Oolong Blue Tea, one must journey high into the mountains of Chiayi County to the mystical Alishan Mountain Range. 

I set out from the bustling metropolis of Taipei, leaving rush hour traffic in my rearview mirror as highways eventually turn to winding hillside roads that snake higher above the cloud line. Arriving in Alishan in the late afternoon, I witness one of the island’s most sought-after spectacles — The Sea of Clouds. This weather phenomenon is an icon of the region. At dusk and dawn, lucky visitors can witness a blanket of thick clouds roll over the mountains’ shoulders, sweeping down into the valley like frothy milk filling a teacup. It’s a majestic sight that never fails to astound me.

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THE ORIGIN OF OOLONG

Alishan is a living testament to centuries of tea cultivation. The name means “Mountain of the Ali,” referring to the indigenous tribe that once inhabited these mountains.

The history of Oolong tea in Taiwan is a fascinating tale of migration and adaptation. According to legend, during the Qing Dynasty, many travellers from Fujian Province brought their tea-making traditions to the island. They settled in the mountainous regions, where they soon discovered that the local conditions were ideal for growing tea. Over time, these settlers developed their distinct methods, blending their traditional practices with innovations suited to the Taiwanese climate and terrain.

Taiwan quickly became known for its high-quality Oolong teas, which are now celebrated worldwide. The island’s most popular variety is High Mountain Oolong, grown at elevations above 1,200 meters. This tea is lightly oxidised, resulting in a flavour profile closer to green tea but with the complexity and body characteristics of Oolong Blue Tea. And Alishan with its lush, mist-shrouded mountains, provides the perfect environment for cultivating this tea variety. The high altitude, fertile soil, and humid climate slow the growth of tea plants, allowing the leaves to develop a richer, more complex Oolong flavour profile.

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THE ART OF OOLONG CULTIVATION

At first light in Alishan, I meet our tea master, who we work with to produce our custom Alishan Imperial Oolong Tea. Overseeing the harvest is essential to ensuring the highest quality tea finds its way to tea drinkers around the world.

The renowned tea master has a long family history of tea cultivation in the region, bringing a unique knowledge to the intricate methods needed to craft the finest-quality Oolong.

I witness the cultivation process and watch the hills burst to life with colourfully dressed tea pluckers, whose laughter and chatter echo out across the valley as they hand-pick the precious Oolong Blue Tea. I wander the tea fields alongside the tea master as the cultivation process unfolds, like a scene from a travel documentary, a picture-perfect snapshot of Taiwan’s natural beauty. 

The cultivation process begins with carefully selecting tea plants, which are grown in neat rows on terraced hillsides. The plants are nurtured year-round, with special attention given to the spring harvest, the first and most significant harvest of the year. This is when the tea leaves are at their finest, tender and bursting with potential.

Harvesting Oolong tea is an intricate process that requires skill and precision. The tea leaves are typically harvested three to four times a year, with the spring harvest being the most prized. Skilled workers hand-pick the young leaves, selecting only the finest shoots to ensure the highest quality. This meticulous selection process is crucial, as the quality of the leaves directly impacts the flavour of the final tea.

After harvesting, the leaves undergo a series of steps that transform them into the exquisite Oolong tea. The first step is withering, where the leaves are spread out to wilt and lose moisture. This process initiates the enzymatic reactions that develop the tea’s flavour and aroma.

The oxidation process begins, which is the defining characteristic of Oolong tea. The leaves are gently tumbled in bamboo cylinders to break down the cell walls and expose them to oxygen. This controlled oxidation process enhances the tea’s flavour profile, adding complexity and depth. The level of oxidation varies, resulting in different types of Oolong tea, from lightly oxidised green Oolongs to more heavily oxidised black Oolongs. Once the desired oxidation level is achieved, the leaves undergo a process called fixing, where they are heated to stop further oxidation. This is then followed by rolling and drying, which shape the leaves and remove additional moisture. For some varieties, like black Oolongs, the leaves are also roasted to develop a richer flavour. The final product is a masterpiece of nature and human craftsmanship, reflecting the dedication and skill of the tea masters who have honed their art over generations.

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A DELICATE DANCE OF OXIDATION

Understanding the differences between green, black, and Oolong tea begins with the oxidation process. Oxidation is a chemical change that occurs when tea leaves are exposed to air, transforming their colour and flavour. This process is similar to the browning of an apple when cut and left in the air. Green Tea is the least oxidised. The leaves are quickly heated after picking to halt oxidation, preserving their green colour and fresh, vegetal flavour. This quick processing results in a lighter, more delicate taste. Black Tea, on the other hand, is fully oxidised. The leaves are allowed to wilt and are then rolled to expose their sap to the air, encouraging complete oxidation. This results in a dark colour and a robust, rich flavour. Oolong Tea occupies a middle ground, with oxidation levels ranging from 10% to 85%. This partial oxidation process gives Oolong teas their unique and complex flavour profiles, which can vary greatly depending on the oxidation level and handcrafted processing techniques. 

The art of making Oolong tea lies in mastering this delicate dance of oxidation. For instance, lightly oxidised Oolongs, often called “Green Oolongs,” are closer to green tea, with a lighter flavour and floral notes. Meanwhile, heavily oxidised Oolongs, or “Black Oolongs,” possess a richer, more robust taste, akin to black tea but with a signature unique complexity.

SAVOURING THE LEGACY

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After observing the harvest and cultivation process, my journey in Alishan always culminates in a tea-tasting session. This is a vital step in my process to ensure the quality of teas I carefully source. And so, in a serene setting overlooking the misty mountains, I sample the freshly processed Alishan Oolong tea. I ensure only optimal temperatures are used – ideally 95°C (203°F) of simmering water – and then I wait patiently for the leaves to infuse, releasing their delicate flavours into the golden liquid. 

Each sip of Alishan Oolong Blue Tea is a voyage through the clouds and across the lush fields. The tea reveals layers of complexity, with floral and vegetal notes, a hint of milky sweetness, and a lingering, smooth finish. It’s a sensory experience that captures the essence of Alishan’s unique terroir and the centuries-old tradition of Oolong tea cultivation.

Alishan Oolong Blue Tea also holds a special place in Taiwanese culture, symbolising perfection achieved through patience and skill. It’s celebrated in tea ceremonies and daily rituals, where each cup reflects its storied past. The tea’s name, Oolong, or “Black Dragon,” evokes images of mythical creatures and ancient legends, adding to its mystique and allure.

With each sip, I feel a deep connection to the land and the people who have dedicated their lives to cultivating this extraordinary tea. Indeed, the tea master we work with often tells me family tales and expresses joy in witnessing young generations continue the art and craft of Oolong Blue Tea production, ensuring the tradition continues. Her words resonate with me, reminding me of the importance of preserving and sharing these artisanal practices.

My journey for Alishan Oolong Blue Tea might have reached its physical end, but with each cup I drink, I’m reminded of the mountains, the mist, and the mastery that crafts this liquid poetry. Alishan lives on in every shared sip, and I’m honoured to share Alishan’s beauty with tea lovers 

In the end, tea is more than just a drink. It’s a bridge between cultures, a connection between the past and present, and a testament to the artistry of those who cultivate it. Alishan Oolong Blue Tea embodies this spirit, inviting us to partake in its legacy, one sip at a time.

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